Shiso

Shiso is an aromatic leafy herb from Japanese cooking with a fresh, green character and notes reminiscent of mint, basil and a hint of citrus. The leaves are used both raw and briefly heated, often as a fragrant accent with fish, rice dishes and pickled preparations.

Latin name: Perilla frutescens var. crispa
Origin: East Asia
Plant family: Mint family (Lamiaceae)
Height: approx. 40–80 cm
Flowering period: summer to early autumn
Lifespan: annual

Description

Shiso, also known as perilla, has serrated leaves that may be green or purplish red depending on the variety. The plant is related to mint, which is reflected in its fresh fragrance and distinctive herbal flavour. Green shiso (aojiso) is usually lighter and fresher, while purple shiso (akajiso) is somewhat earthier and is often used to give colour and aroma to pickles such as umeboshi. In the kitchen, shiso is valued for its bright fragrance and its ability to freshen richer flavours.

In the kitchen

Shiso is at its most expressive when raw: use whole leaves as a “wrap” for sushi, sashimi or rice, tear it over salads, or slice it into fine strips as a topping for cold noodles and cucumber dishes. Shiso pairs beautifully with soy, sesame, miso, ponzu, rice vinegar, ginger and citrus, but also with oily fish, tempura, mushrooms and aubergine. It can also be briefly heated: add it at the end to a stir-fry, broth or omelette so the aroma is not lost. The flavour is pronounced; just a few leaves are often enough to give a dish direction.

In the herb garden

Shiso likes to grow in a warm, bright spot with sufficient moisture, whether in a pot or in open ground. Sow preferably in spring and keep the soil lightly moist; young plants may be a little slow to get going, but then grow quickly. Harvest the upper leaves regularly and pinch out the tips to encourage branching. If you allow the plant to flower, it may self-seed quite easily. For the best result, pick young, unblemished leaves and use them straight away. If you do want to keep them briefly, wrap the leaves loosely in a lightly damp cloth and place them in a sealed container in the refrigerator.